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Venomous Pests

Venomous Pests

by Nick Gromicko, Rob London and Kenton Shepard

Venomous pests are found virtually everywhere, and homeowners may encounter one while living on the property.

Bees and Wasps

Bees and wasps are flying, stinging insects commonly found in and around homes throughout much of the world. Stings from these insects are normally not serious, except in people who are allergic to the venom or when large numbers of the insects attack at once. Even when they are not a serious threat, bees and wasps can be a nuisance and a source of fear, especially during the summer months when people gather outside the home. 

  • A few facts about bees and wasps:
  • More than half of all fruit and vegetable crops are pollinated by honey bees.
  • Wasps contribute to the ecological cycle by preying on many insect-pests that are harmful to crops.
  • Bees vs. Wasps: While many homeowners refer to bees and wasps interchangeably, inspectors should know the ways that they differ.  Differentiation between these insects is important because different methods may be necessary to remove them if they become a nuisance. Bees and wasps differ in the following ways:
  • Bees feed solely on pollen. Wasps, by contrast, are predatory and feed mostly on insects. Some common bees include honeybees, carpenter bees and bumblebees. Some common wasps are yellowjackets, hornets and paper wasps. Yellowjackets and hornets can appear virtually identical, although hornets usually have larger heads.
  • While bees have robust, hairy bodies with flat rear legs, wasps’ bodies are slender with narrow waists connecting the thorax and abdomen. Wasps appear smooth and shiny and have slender legs shaped like cylinders.
  • Wasps, especially yellowjackets, are generally more aggressive than bees and they are more likely to come into contact with humans while in search of food. Wasps can become a nuisance in the warmer months because they often disrupt outdoor activities where meats and sweet liquids are present. A flying insect that repeatedly lands on a hot dog at a picnic or circles a dumpster is almost certainly not a bee.
  • Stinging wasps can sting repeatedly, while honeybees will die shortly after stinging once. Other bees, however, can sting repeatedly.
  • Where do bees and wasps nest?
  • Bees and wasps prefer attics because they are warm and protected. They will find it easier to enter and infest an attic that is covered by slate or wood roofing as opposed to metal or asphalt shingles. Poor flashing may also allow easy insect entry. Inspectors entering attics with open (unscreened) gable vents should be on the lookout for bee or wasp infestation.
  • Yellowjackets typically nest underground using existing hollows. Occasionally, nests can be found in dark, enclosed areas in a building, such as crawlspaces, wall voids and attics. Nests are enclosed in a paper-like envelope, but they are rarely exposed or observed unless excavated. The nest entrance is small and inconspicuous. Colonies are readily defended because yellowjackets will sting when the nest area is disturbed.
  • Hornets produce large, conspicuous grayish paper-like nests in trees, shrubs and beneath building eaves.
  • Paper wasps will nest in small cavities in the sides of buildings, within metal gutters and poles, outdoor grills, and similar items.
  • Honeybees, unlike wasps and other types of bees, produce a persistent, perennial colony. These hives can grow very large, containing tens of thousands of bees, and are usually found outdoors, especially on trees. Hives that are discovered inside buildings must be eliminated as soon as possible. If allowed to develop, large amounts of wax and honey will be produced which may damage the building when the hive dies out or when the combs melt due to excessive heat. Rodents and insects will also be attracted to such sites.
  • Bumblebee nests are commonly constructed in abandoned rodent burrows, and they may also be found indoors in small hollow spaces, particularly if insulating debris is available.
  • Nest Control:  Nests should be destroyed if they are close enough to humans to pose a stinging threat. They should always be approached with caution, preferably at night when most of the “workers” are present but reluctant to fly. A few additional tips:
  • Be aware that bees and wasps are attracted to lights, especially flashlights carried by homeowners as they enter dark attics or crawlspaces.
  • Use extreme caution when performing bee or wasp control from a ladder.
  • If a nest is not discovered until fall, control may be unnecessary, as imminent freezing temperatures will kill the colony.
  • If there is direct access to the nest, a fast-acting dust or wettable powder formulation can be applied. If the nest must be removed during the daytime, a can of aerosol insect killer can be used to keep the bees or wasps at bay. Heavy clothing should be worn for added protection.

Snakes

Rattlesnakes, copperheads, and other snakes often reside in crawlspaces with dirt floors and in a home’s landscaping and drainage. Snakes are easily startled and may react aggressively toward intruders. The following snakes may be encountered:

  • Bull snakes are large, non-venomous snakes common in the central parts of the U.S., northern Mexico and southern Canada. They are usually yellow in color, with brown, black or reddish- colored blotching. Due to its patterns and semi-keeled scalation, the bull snake is often mistaken for the Western Diamondback rattlesnake. The bull snake capitalizes on this similarity by performing an impressive rattlesnake impression when threatened; the snake can produce a convincing “rattle” sound, and flatten its head to appear more characteristically triangular. Their mimicry is so impressive that it is frequently the bull snake’s undoing when discovered by humans.
  • Copperheads are fairly large, venomous snakes with broad, triangular heads, vertically elliptical pupils, and heat-sensitive pits between each eye and nostril. The body is tan to brown, with dark “hourglass”-shaped crossbands down the length of the body. Small dark spots are common between crossbands on the back. The unpatterned head is dull orange, copper or rusty-red. When young, a copperhead has a yellow-tipped tail. The head is solid brown, and there are two tiny dots in the center of the top of the head. Copperheads are quite tolerant of habitat alteration and remain common in suburban areas of many large cities. They can be found throughout the eastern and central United States but are absent from most of Florida and south-central Georgia. Copperhead bites can be painful, although the symptoms are generally not as severe as bites from rattlesnakes.
  • Coral snakes possess the most potent venom of any North American snakes, and they can be found in a number of southern states from North Carolina to Texas, although they account for less than 1% of venomous snake bites in the U.S. There are several reasons they don’t claim more human victims — they have short fangs that have difficulty penetrating clothing, they are more reclusive than most other snakes, and they typically inject only a relatively small quantity of venom when they bite. Any skin penetration, however, is a medical emergency that requires immediate attention. Coral snakes have a powerful neurotoxic venom that paralyzes the breathing muscles. The following symptoms are characteristic of coral snake envenomation:
    • nausea;
    • drowsiness;
    • vomiting;
    • excessive salivation;
    • difficulty breathing; and
    • paralysis.

    It is important to note that coral snake bites do not result in significant swelling, discoloration or pain, and effects of the venom may take hours to develop.

    Identification: Physically, coral snakes are anomalies among North American venomous snakes. Unlike rattlesnakes, cottonmouths and copperheads, coral snakes are not pit vipers. Thus, they lack the characteristic pit viper’s triangular head and vertically-oriented eyes, and they are quite small, shy and may appear harmless. Fortunately, they can be easily identified by their distinctive red, yellow and black color pattern. The sequence of these colors — red-yellow-black — is critical for identification, as other snakes perform a successful mimicry except in this one aspect. The harmless milk snake, for instance, would appear almost identical if its color pattern were not red-black-yellow. A useful way to remember this distinction is:  “Red touch yellow, kill a fellow. Red touch black, poison lack.”

  • Garter snakes are harmless, and can be found everywhere from Canada to Central America. Most garter snakes are striped or banded lengthwise, and some are spotted between the stripes. They are found in moist environments, and most varieties are roughly 2 feet long.
  • Rattlesnakes are the most dangerous venomous snakes in North America. They bite thousands of people annually, although very few bites are fatal. The rattlesnake is easily distinguished by a rattle at the end of its tail, which is composed of a series of dried, hollow segments of skin which, when shaken, make a rattling sound. When the snake is alarmed, it shakes its tail, and the noise serves as a warning to the attacker. While most rattlesnakes are concentrated in the southwestern United States, they extend north, east and south in diminishing numbers and varieties. Every contiguous state has one or more varieties of rattlesnake. Rattlesnakes can be identified in the following ways:
    • broad, triangular head;
    • eyes have vertical “cat-like” pupils;
    • scales are keeled (raised center ridge);
    • body appears heavy or fat in the middle;
    • large tubular fangs that fold out when the mouth opens;
    • blunt tail with rattle, although baby rattlesnakes don’t have rattles, and some adult snakes may break or lose their rattles; and
    • typically, rattlesnakes range from 3 to 4 feet in length. Eastern Diamondback rattlesnakes can be significantly longer, however — sometimes in excess of 7 feet.
      · 
      Symptoms of Rattlesnake Bites:
    • pain and swelling in the area surrounding the bite (swelling may take several hours to develop);
    • rapid pulse and labored breathing;
    • progressive, general weakness;
    • visual impairment;
    • nausea and vomiting;
    • seizures; and
    • drowsiness or unconsciousness.
  • Differentiating Bull snakes from Rattlesnakes:
    The following tips can help prevent any confusion between these two snakes:
  • Bull snakes have no rattler. When threatened, they will often forcefully vibrate their tails which serves as a warning to potential predators. In dry leaves or grass, this will produce a sound that is quite similar to one emitted by a rattlesnake. Another related indicator is that bull snakes will keep their tails low to the ground while producing ther rattling sound, while most rattlesnakes will elevate their tail while rattling.
  • Although the two often have similar patterns, bull snakes are generally cream or pale yellow in color with brown or black markings; rattlesnakes, on the other hand, are typically much darker, depending upon the subspecies.
  • The body of a bull snake is more streamlined than that of a rattlesnake. A bull snake will be noticeably thinner and its body will become proportionately narrower down to its tail, which ends at a defined point. A rattlesnake will appear thicker, particularly in its mid-section, with a more rounded tail due to its rattle.
  • The head of a bull snake is nearly identical in size to the upper portion of its body. The head of a rattlesnake, however, is more triangular in shape and is perceptibly wider than its upper body.
  • Bull snakes’ pupils are circular, while those of rattlesnakes are vertically-oriented. All venomous snakes in North America have vertically-oriented pupils, except for the coral snake.
  • Bull snakes lay eggs, while rattlesnakes give birth to live offspring.

 Spiders

Most spiders pose no threat to humans. In fact, of the 20,000 species of spiders that inhabit the Americas, only 60 are capable of biting humans. Within that small group, only a handful of species are known to be dangerous to humans. Of these, only the brown recluse and the black widow have ever been associated with significant harm and rare reports of death. Tarantula bites, despite common fears, are not significantly more dangerous to humans than wasp stings.

  • Black widow spiders are perhaps the most venomous spiders in North America.
  • Identification:  The female black widow is normally shiny black, with a red “hourglass” marking on the underside of the abdomen. The abdominal marking may range in color from yellowish-orange to red, and its shape may range from an hourglass to a dot. In a few widow spiders, however, no pattern is obvious on the abdomen. The body of an adult black widow female is about 1/2-inch long, while the male widow spiders are smaller. They usually are not black in overall color, and instead appear light brown or gray and banded. Male widows may have an hourglass pattern, but coloration often is more orange and sometimes yellow. Widow spiders build loose and irregular mesh-type webs, often on plants, in loose stone and wood piles, and in the corners of rooms, garages and outbuildings. They do not produce the symmetrical web typical of orb-weaving spiders  or the distinctive “funnel” pattern of funnel weaver spiders.
  • Symptoms of Bite:  While the area around the bite may result in swelling, the venom is primarily a neurotoxin which does not cause significant localized tissue death. Rather, the venom, as well as other neurotoxins, affect the nervous system of the afflicted animal. Without medical attention, the symptoms of a black widow bite can last for days, and a complete recovery may take weeks. Black widow bites commonly cause the following symptoms:
    • painful rigidity in the muscles of the abdomen;
    • tightness in the chest accompanied by labored breathing;
    • elevated blood pressure;
    • elevated body temperature;
    • nausea; and
    • sweating.

Death is uncommon (less than 1% of the reported cases), but in the elderly or very young, death may occur from asphyxia. Seek medical attention if you suspect you have been bitten.

 

  • Habitat:  Black widow spiders and their relatives can be found almost anywhere in the Western hemisphere in damp and dark places. The spider prefers the following exterior environments:  woodpiles, rubble piles, under stones, in hollow stumps, and in rodent burrows, sheds and garages. Indoors, they are found in undisturbed, cluttered areas in basements and crawlspaces.
  • Brown Recluse:  Along with the black widow, the brown recluse is potentially the most dangerous spider in North America. Despite their reclusive habits, they do occasionally bite humans. Recluses typically bite when they are trapped between flesh and another surface, as when a sleeping human rolls over on a prowling spider, or when a person is putting on clothing or shoes containing the spider.
    • Identification:  The brown recluse is usually between 1/4-inch to 3/4-inch (6mm to 20mm) but may grow larger. They are notable for their characteristic “violin” pattern on the back of their cephalothorax — the body part to which the legs attach. These spiders are not aggressive and bite only when threatened, usually when pressed up against the victim’s skin. They seek out dark, warm, dry environments such as attics, closets, porches, barns, basements, woodpiles and old tires.
    • Symptoms of Bite:
      • severe pain at bite site after about four hours;
      • severe itching;
      • nausea;
      • vomiting;
      • fever;
      • muscle pain; and
      • potentially severe localized tissue damage.
  • Hobo Spider:  This spider is not native to the U.S., but by the mid-1960s, it had become established in Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia. Current distribution places it also in Montana, northern Utah, and western Wyoming. Although the bite of the hobo spider is initially painless, it can be serious. Hobo spiders are often confused with wolf spiders, which produce a painful but relatively harmless bite. If serious symptoms develop, the victim should seek medical attention.
  • Symptoms of bite:
    • immediate redness, which develops around the bite;
    • after 24 hours, the bite develops into a blister, and after 24 to 36 hours, the blister breaks open, leaving an open, oozing ulceration;
    • severe headache;
    • temporary memory loss;
    • impairment of vision;
    • nausea; and
    • weakness.

Preventing Spider Infestation

InterNACHI believes that spiders can be discouraged from entering the home by increasing lighting of darkened corners, such as by appropriate furniture arrangement and use of artificial lighting. Insecticides should be applied in dark, undisturbed areas where spiders are likely to produce webs. Insecticides also can be used to prevent spider migrations into homes by spraying around the exterior foundation and lower-story windows. Preventative spraying should be performed before temperatures get low since, by this point, spiders and other insects may have already entered the house. The insecticide chlorpyrifos (DursbanÒ) is the most widely available product for control of spiders around a home. Chlorpyrifos has a residual effectiveness of several weeks, particularly if not exposed to light and moisture. However, it is moderately toxic to humans.  

In summary, there are many kinds of venomous pests that you may encounter in and around the home, and knowing what they are and the hazards they pose can help you act with appropriate caution.

Bob Wisnewski on Zillow

 

U-Factor Ratings for Windows

U-Factor Ratings for Windows

by Nick Gromicko and Ethan Ward
 

When quantifying the energy efficiency of a window assembly, the rate of loss of non-solar heat can be expressed as its U-factor (or U-value).  Understanding the U-factors of windows is helpful for inspectors performing energy audits, as well as for consumers planning a new build or updating a house with energy-efficient windows. 

 

U-Factor or R-Value?

While windows are rated using both U-factors and R-values, the U-factor is used to express the insulative value specifically of windows, while the R-value is used primarily to rate the energy efficiency of insulation installed in other areas of the building envelope, such as beneath the roof, in the attic, behind the walls, and beneath the floors.  In order to translate a window’s U-factor into its R-value, divide 1 by the U-factor.  For example, a window with a U-factor of 0.25 is calculated as 1 ÷ 0.25 = 4, so the same window has an R-value of 4.

What is the U-Factor? 

The U-factor rating system was devised by the National Fenestration RatingAn example of an NFRC-certified product label Council (NFRC).  The NFRC is a non-profit group that administers a uniform, independent rating and labeling system for the energy efficiency of building components, including windows, doors, skylights and attachment products.  The U.S. Department of Energy and the Environmental Protection Agency’s Energy Star Program take the U-factor into account when evaluating the energy efficiency of windows for product certifications, and federal incentive and rebate programs.

Windows that have the best resistance to heat flow and, thus, the best insulating qualities, have a low U-factor.  Less efficient windows with poor insulating ability have a high U-factor.  The combination of a window’s U-factor, air leakage, sunlight transmittance, and solar heat-gain coefficient add up to determine its level of energy efficiency. 

The temperature difference between the interior and exterior of a building creates the non-solar heat flow that results in windows losing heat to the outside during the winter, and gaining heat from outside during the summer.  Compensating for this by cranking the thermostat or turning up the AC results in added energy needs and higher bills.  Greater energy efficiency calls for a closer examination of the individual building components to see how they can work individually and in relation to each other in more effective ways.  U-factor ratings can help in formulating standardized comparisons and objective evaluations.

Determining the U-Factor

The U-factor generally refers to the energy efficiency of the complete window assembly, which includes the glazing, window frame and spacer.  The spacer is the component of a window frame that separates the glazing panels, and often reduces the U-factor at the glazing edges.  The performance rating of the glazing alone, independent of the frame, is known as the center-of-glass U-factor, but use of this rating is less common.  For most energy-efficient windows, the U-factor for the entire window assembly is higher than the U-factor at the center of the glass.

The best, high-performance, double-pane windows may have a U-factor of 0.30 or lower, indicating that they are very energy-efficient.  Some triple-pane windows may have a U-factor as low as 0.15.  Manufacturers have started to incorporate low-emittance coatings and gas fills between panes in attempts to further decrease U-factors and provide an even more energy-efficient product.

U-Factors in Different Climates

While beneficial in cooling-dominated climates, a low U-factor is most important for windows in heating-dominated climates.  The following are recommendations for the most effective window U-factors based on the major climate zones in the United States.

  • In colder climates in the North that are heating-dominated, the U-factor should be less than or equal to 0.30 for windows, and less than or equal to 0.55 for skylights.  In areas where air-conditioning needs are minimal, windows that allow for solar heat gain during the day (a solar heat-gain coefficient of 0.40 or higher) can be considered energy-efficient with a U-factor as high as 0.32.  Low U-factor windows are most important and will be most effective in this colder climate area where minimizing heat loss is critical to energy efficiency. 
  • In mixed climates in the North and Midwest regions that use both heating and cooling, the U-factor should be less than or equal to 0.32 for windows, and less than or equal to 0.55 for skylights.  Heating bills can help determine the importance of U-factors in this climate.  Higher bills indicate the importance windows with a lower U-factor for added energy efficiency.
  • In mixed climates in the South and central regions that use both heating and cooling, the U-factor should be less than or equal to 0.35 for windows, and less than or equal to 0.57 for skylights.  In these climates, again, heating costs can determine if a lower U-factor could be beneficial and more energy-efficient.  If costs are high and a list of factors for heat loss is being addressed, window U-factor can be taken into consideration.  A low U-factor for windows can also be helpful during hotter seasons when it is important to keep heat out, though a low solar heat-gain coefficient is more important in such situations.
  • In hot climates in the South that are cooling-dominated, the U-factor can be less than or equal to 0.60 for windows, and less than or equal to 0.70 for skylights.  A lower U-factor is still useful during any cold times of the year when heating is needed in this climate.  Such low ratings can ensure that heat is kept out on hot days when combined with a low solar heat-gain coefficient, which is the most important consideration in this climate.

Understanding the function and rating criteria for U-factors is a helpful tool for inspectors who perform energy audits.  They can then pass this information along to their clients who may have questions about their windows and their home’s overall energy efficiency.

 

Bob Wisnewski on Zillow

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tyvek®

Tyvek®

by Nick Gromicko and Rob London
Tyvek® housewrap is used as a moisture and vapor barrier

Tyvek® is a brand of synthetic, high-density polyethylene fiber used in a variety of applications. It was first discovered by DuPont researcher Jim White in 1955, and officially trademarked as Tyvek® 10 years later by DuPont, which continues to manufacture the material today.

Tyvek® is formed when polyethylene fibers, seven times finer than a human hair, are bonded in a random pattern under high heat and pressure. The resulting product has the following properties:

  • high strength-to-weight ratio. While it is strong, Tyvek® can be cut with scissors or other sharp objects;
  • water-resistant. Water vapor can pass through, however, making it highly breathable;
  • somewhat fire-resistant. Some types of Tyvek® are labeled “Class A,” meaning that they are safe to use in public and private buildings, while other types are labeled the lesser “Class 1” for “normal flammability.” Tyvek® will melt and shrink away from a flame, and it will burn at approximately 750° F;
  • chemical-resistant. Due to its neutral pH, Tyvek® is resistant to most acids, bases and salts;
  • dimensional stability. Dimensions of Tyvek® sheets remain relatively stable, regardless of temperature or humidity;
  • high opacity. As a result of many light refractions between the fine polyethylene fibers and air, very little visible light can pass through Tyvek®; and
  • UV resistance. Direct sunlight will degrade Tyvek®, although its life can be extended through the application of opaque coatings.

While Tyvek® is non-toxic and generally harmless, builders should be aware of one lurking danger:  static electricity. When Tyvek® is handled, it can generate a static charge unless it is treated with anti-static agents, which are water-soluble and not applied on all Tyvek®  products sold. For these reasons, DuPont recommends that Tyvek® — especially Class B, which receives no anti-static treatment — not be handled in flammable or explosive environments.

All Tyvek® falls into one of two categories:

  • “hard structure,” which is often known as Tyvek® paper because of its paper-like texture. Hard structure Tyvek® coveralls are used by inspectors is commonly used to make tents, tarps, waterproof, breathable barriers, and ground cloths; and
  • “soft structure,” which is often referred to as Tyvek® fabric because of its fabric-like texture. It is designed for applications where drape and soft feel are important.

Tyvek® is used in an enormous variety of products, from envelopes and wristbands to clothing and tape. Inspectors are most likely to encounter Tyvek® in the following two applications:

  • coveralls. These one-piece garments made from Tyvek®, usually white in color, are usually worn by inspectors working in areas where they may come across rodents, lead dust, asbestos or chemicals, especially in crawlspaces. Mechanics also commonly wear Tyvek® suits to avoid contact with oil and fuel; and
  • housewrap. Builders install this barrier so that when moisture penetrates the cladding, it will meet the housewrap and drain away before the sheathing absorbs it, where it can cause decay. Housewrap also prevents air infiltration.

In summary, Tyvek® is a unique material used in a wide variety of applications.

Bob Wisnewski on Zillow

 

 

 

 

 

 

Poison Ivy, Oak and Sumac

Poison Ivy, Oak and Sumac

by Nick Gromicko and Rob London

 
 Poison ivy rash and blisters

In almost all suburban and rural regions of the United States and Canada, inspectors run the risk of developing potentially debilitating, allergic symptoms from exposure to urushiol-secreting plants. This potent, clear oil causes an itching rash (called contact dermatitis) in 350,000 people each year, but these numbers can be reduced through education and by taking appropriate precautions. Exposure can put sufferers out of work for days or weeks, and may even require hospitalization. Inspectors should learn to identify these plants — especially the top three offenders:  poison ivy, poison oak and poison sumac — and protect themselves and their clients from the dangers lurking in yards across North America.

Urushiol oil is potent — just 0.25 ounces of the allergen is sufficient to cause a rash on every person on earth, according to the Poison Ivy, Oak and Sumac Information Center. The oil begins to penetrate the skin within minutes after contact, but the rash usually takes 12 to 72 hours to appear, at which point the person experiences severe itching, redness and swelling, followed by blisters. While the rash appears to spread, it is not contagious, but it will continue to grow due to differing rates of the immune system’s response to the oil.

A few other important facts about urushiol oil:

  • A segment of the population – perhaps as much as 30% — is not allergic to urushiol oil, although many people may become sensitized after repeated exposure.
  • NEVER burn any plants described in this guide. Urishiol vapors can travel long distances, and inhaling them can create potentially life-threatening respiratory distress.
  • Do not handle dead urushiol-secreting plants. The oil can remain active for several years, so handling dead leaves or vines can cause a reaction.
  • Oil transferred from the plant to other objects (such as pet fur) can cause a rash if it comes into contact with human skin. Domesticated animals and wildlife do not appear to be allergic to urushiol.
  • The oil may be removed with alcohol or cold water for a short period following exposure.Poison ivy, displaying its notorious three-leaf pattern
  • Urushiol oil is found in virtually every part of the host plant, including the leaves, vines and roots. Tearing the plant in an attempt to kill it will release far more oil than can be contracted from just accidentally brushing against it.

The Three Most Notorious Allergenic Plants in North America

  • Poison ivy accounts for the majority of contact dermatitis resulting from urushiol oil.
    • Habitat:  Poison ivy grows throughout much of suburban and rural North America, including the Canadian maritime provinces, Quebec, Ontario, Manitoba, and all U.S. states east of the Rockies except North Dakota, as well as in mountainous areas of Mexico below 4,900 feet (1,500 m). It is common in wooded areas, especially along lawn edges, as well as in exposed rocky areas, and in open fields and disturbed areas.
    • Identification:  Poison ivy can be found in any of the following three forms:
      • as a trailing vine or groundcover that is 4 to 10 inches (10 to 25 cm) long;
      • as a shrub that can grow up to 4 feet (1.2 meters) tall; and
      • as a climbing vine that grows on trees or some other support, which may act as a tree limb.

Regardless of its form, alternating clusters of three almond-shaped leaves that range in color from light to dark green, turning red in the fall, easily Poison oak, red with fall and spottet black from air-exposed urushiol oildistinguish poison ivy. Its leaf surfaces are smooth and become shiny with maturity, and their edges may or may not be ridged. Poison ivy vines have no thorns.

  • Poison oak is a poisonous, upright shrub. Just as poison ivy merely resembles actual ivy, poison oak owes its name to a superficial resemblance to the oak tree’s leaves.
    • Habitat:  Poison oak comes in two region-based varieties:
      • Atlantic poison oak, which can be found growing in forests, thickets, and dry, sandy fields; and
      • Western poison oak, which is found only on the North American Pacific coast. It is typically found in damp, semi-shady areas near running water, but thrives in direct sunlight, and requires water only in early spring. The plant is common in Douglas fir forests and California oak woodlands. Poison oak vines climb far up the trunks of coastal redwoods, sometimes killing small trees.
    • Identification:  Due to its tendency to mimic its surroundings, identifying poison oak can be difficult. In open sunlight, it grows as a dense shrub, and as a climbing vine in shaded areas. Its leaves are somewhat larger than poison ivy leaves, although, similarly, poison oak displays an alternating three-leaf pattern. The leaves are hairy, scalloped and toothed, resembling real oak leaves, although they tend to be glossier. The leaf colors range from bronze to green, and red and pink in the fall. Poison oak’s small, round fruit emerges from white flowers. Once the leaves have shed in the winter, the plant may be identified by black marks where milky sap once cooled and dried.
    • Poison sumac, displaying a paired, 9 leaf pattern and light-colored berries
  • Poison sumacis a highly poisonous woody shrub or small tree. Although its rarity reduces the incidence of human exposure, the plant is far more virulent than other urushiol-secreting plants.
    • Habitat:  Poison sumac grows exclusively in wet soils, typically in peat bogs and swamps of the eastern United States and Canada.
    • Identification:  Poison sumac is a shrub or small tree that can grow up to 20 feet (7 m) high. Unlike poison ivy and poison oak, poison sumac leaves come in long, paired rows with an additional leaf at the end. The leaves may have black spots made up of urushiol oil, which turns dark upon exposure to air. The fruits are semi-spherical, small and white, while non-poisonous sumac berries are red.

In summary, urushiol-secreting plants should be studied and prepared for to avoid painful allergic reactions.   Inspectors should be aware of the outdoor foliage as they conduct their inspections, and wear long-sleeved shirts and pants to avoid the risk of exposure to poisonous plant life.  Homeowners should also be aware of the plant species that may surround their homes, and take steps to remove those that threaten the health of family members.

 

Bob Wisnewski on Zillow

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tree Dangers

 

Tree Dangers

by Nick Gromicko and Rob London Tree too close to house
  • Although trees are generally a desirable feature of home landscaping, they can pose a threat to buildings in a number of different ways. Inspectors may want to educate themselves about tree dangers so that they can inform their clients about potentially dangerous situations. Tree Roots and FoundationsContrary to popular belief, InterNACHI has found that tree roots cannot normally pierce through a building’s foundation. They can, however, damage a foundation in the following ways:
    • Roots can sometimes penetrate a building’s foundation through pre-existing cracks.
    • Large root systems that extend beneath a house can cause foundation uplift.
    • Roots can leech water from the soil beneath foundations, causing the structures to settle and sink unevenly.

Other Dangers:

  • Trees that are too close to buildings may be fire hazards. Soffit vents provide easy access for flames to enter a house.
  • Leaves and broken branches can clog gutters, potentially causing ice dams or water penetration into the building.
  • Old, damaged or otherwise weak trees may fall and endanger lives and property. Large, weak branches, too, are a hazard, especially if weighed down by ice.
  • Tree roots can potentially penetrate underground drainage pipes, especially when they leak. Water that leaks from a drainage or sanitary pipe can encourage root growth in the direction of the leak, where the roots may eventually enter the pipe and obstruct its flow.
  • Trees may be used by insects and rodents to gain access to the building.
  • Falling trees and branches can topple power lines and communication lines.

Structural Defects in Trees

Dangerous Crack in tree

Trees with structural defects likely to cause failure to all or part of a tree can damage nearby buildings. The following are indications that a tree has a structural defect:

  • dead twigs, dead branches, or small, off-color leaves;
  • species-specific defects. Some species of maple, ash and pear often form weak branch unions, while some other fast-growing species of maple, aspen, ailanthus and willow are weak-wooded and prone to breakage at a relatively young age;
  • cankers, which are localized areas on branches or stems of a tree where the bark is sunken or missing. Cankers are caused by wounding or disease. The presence of a canker increases the chance that the stem will break near the canker. A tree with a canker that encompasses more than half of the tree’s circumference may be hazardous even if the exposed wood appears healthy;
  • hollowed trunks;
  • Advanced decay (wood that is soft, punky or crumbly, or a cavity where the wood is missing) can create a serious hazard. Evidence of fungal activity, such as mushrooms, conks and brackets growing on root flares, stems or branches are indications of advanced decay. A tree usually decays from the inside out, eventually forming a cavity, but sound wood is also added to the outside of the tree as it grows. Trees with sound outer wood shells may be relatively safe, but this depends on the ratio of sound-to-decayed wood, and other defects that might be present;
  • cracks, which are deep splits through the bark, extending into the wood of the tree. Cracks are very dangerous because they indicate that the tree is presently failing;
  • V-shaped forks. Elm, oak, maple, yellow poplar and willow are especially prone to breakage at weak forks;
  • The tree leans at more than 15 degrees from vertical. Generally, trees bent to this degree should be removed if they pose a danger. Trees that have grown in a leaning orientation are not as hazardous as trees that were originally straight but subsequently developed a lean due to wind or Canker in tree root damage. Large trees that have tipped in intense winds seldom recover. The general growth-form of the tree and any uplifted soil on the side of the tree opposite the lean provide clues as to when the lean developed.

 

Tips 

  • Binoculars are helpful for examining the higher portions of tall trees for damage.
  • When planting trees, they should be kept far from the house. It is impossible for the homeowner to reliably predict how far the roots will spread, and trees that are too close to a building may be a fire hazard.
  • Do not damage roots. In addition to providing nutrition for the tree, roots anchor the tree to the ground. Trees with damaged roots are more likely to lean and topple than trees with healthy roots. Vehicles are capable of damaging a tree’s root system.
  • Dead trees within the range of a house should be removed. If they are not removed, the small twigs will fall first, followed by the larger branches, and eventually the trunk. This process can take several years.
  • Inspect your trees periodically for hazards, especially in large, old trees. Every tree likely to have a problem should be inspected from bottom to top. Look for signs of decay and continue up the trunk toward the crown, noting anything that might indicate a potential hazard.

In summary, trees that are too close to buildings can potentially cause structural damage. 

Bob Wisnewski on Zillow