GARAGE DOOR OPENERS


 As of July 1, 2019, All Automatic Garage Door Openers Must Have a Battery Back Up (CA)SB 969, Dodd. Automatic garage door openers: backup batteries.
Existing law requires an automatic garage door opener that is manufactured for sale, purchased, sold, offered for sale, or installed in a residence to comply with specified safety requirements, including that the automatic garage door opener have an automatic reverse safety device.
This bill, beginning July 1, 2019, would also require an automatic garage door opener that is manufactured for sale, sold, offered for sale, or installed in a residence to have a battery backup function that is designed to operate when activated because of an electrical outage. The bill would make a violation of those provisions subject to a civil penalty of $1,000. The bill would, on and after July 1, 2019, prohibit a replacement residential garage door from being installed in a manner that connects the door to an existing garage door opener that does not meet the requirements of these provisions.
 

Ceramic Tile and Stone Inspection

Ceramic Tile and Stone Inspection

by Nick Gromicko
Ceramic tile and stone are popular flooring materials, but each is subject to damage if not properly maintained.Natural stone floors are durable, but vulnerable to common acids and dirt
Ceramic tile, due to its low required maintenance, ease of cleaning, and resistance to physical damage, is one of the most popular flooring materials available today. Made primarily from clay and other organic, as well as inorganic, materials, the tile is available in both glazed and unglazed finishes. Ceramic tiles are vulnerable to a number of defects, however, that can be inspected for the following issues:
  • uneven tiles. Examine the tiles to see how level they are in relation to each other. Uneven tiles probably weren’t set correctly in the mortar, and reinstallation may be necessary;
  • cracks, loose tiles and splitting. Cracks in ceramic tile are the result of movement in the tile underlayment, excessive expansion or contraction of the building during freeze-thaw cycles, abuse, or improper installation. Minor cracks can be repaired with grout that matches the color of the tile, but larger cracks may require replacement of the tile;
  • crazing. If tiles were cooled too quickly after kiln-firing, they can develop fine surface cracks, most often appearing as a fine, web-like network akin to cracked ice. Crazing is much more common in older, historic tiles than in modern tiles, but it still happens today. Crazing increases the rate at which tiles hold dirt, leading to discoloration; and
  • cracked or discolored grout lines. Unsealed or improperly sealed grout will readily absorb moisture from the air or standing water, especially around showers and sinks. Some types of porous tiles may actually powder or spall if subjected to constant moisture. Damaged or discolored grout can be removed This historic tile is thoroughly crazed and replaced.

Natural stone tiles have a beauty that is difficult to recreate. They add an air of elegance and character to any home. Stone is more durable than ceramic tile, too, as it’s less likely to scratch, and holds up well under foot traffic. The unique and complex patterns can appear busy and overwhelming in large, empty rooms, however.  Stone is also more difficult to maintain than ceramic tile. The following maintenance and repair tips are recommended:

  • Apply an impregnating sealant. An oliophobic sealant will repel both oil and water, and it’s especially helpful in the kitchen. Try to use a solvent-based sealant, as they’re generally better than water-based varieties.
  • Quickly clean up any acids. Some of the more common stone tiles are marble and limestone, which are calcite-based, meaning that they will corrode when exposed to acids, such as vinegar or lemon juice. Unfortunately, sealants cannot protect stone against these substances, which will etch into the stone if left standing. Igneous stones, such as basalt and granite, as well as ceramic tile, are less vulnerable to acid damage.
  • Lay walk-off mats or area rugs on either side of exterior entrances and instruct people to wipe their feet before they enter the home. The main cause of surface scratching on stone floors is dirt from outside that becomes caught under shoes and scraped across the floor. Scratching can dull the stone’s natural polish and damage its natural crystals, causing it to lose its shine and reflection.
  • Use a good-quality stone soap, preferably one containing linseed oil, for regular maintenance and cleaning. In most cases, you can simply mop the soap and leave it to dry.
In summary, ceramic and stone can be superb flooring materials, but water, acid, improper installation, and other adverse conditions may create defects.
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Central Humidifiers

Central Humidifiers

by Nick Gromicko and Kenton Shepard
Central humidifier
Humidifiers are devices that humidify air so that building occupants are comfortable. Central humidifiers are hard-wired into a house’s plumbing and forced-air heating systems.

What is humidity?

Humidity refers to the amount of moisture in the air. “Relative humidity” signifies the amount of moisture in the air relative to the maximum amount of water the air can contain before it becomes saturated. This maximum moisture count is related to air temperature in that the hotter the air is, the more moisture it can hold. For instance, if indoor air temperature drops, relative humidity will increase.

How do central air humidifiers work?

Central air humidifiers are integrated into the forced-air heating system so that they humidify air while it is being heated. The water that is used by the device is pumped automatically into the humidifier from household plumbing, unlike portable humidifiers, which require the user to periodically supply water to the device. Humidifiers are available in various designs, each of which turns liquid water into water vapor, which is then vented into the house at an adjustable rate.

Why humidify air?

Certain airborne pathogens, such as those that cause the flu, circulate easier in dry air than in moist air. Moist air also seems to soothe irritated, inflamed airways. For someone with a cold and thick nasal secretions, a humidifier can help thin out the secretions and make breathing easier.

Indoor air that is too dry can also cause the following problems:

  • damage to musical instruments, such as pianos, guitars and violins;
  • dry skin;
  • peeling wallpaper;
  • static electricity, which can damage sensitive electrical equipment, cause hair to stick up, and can be painful or annoying; and
  • cracks in wood furniture, floors, cabinets and paint.

Central Humidifier Dangers

Humidifiers can cause various diseases. The young, elderly and infirm may be particularly at risk to contamination from airborne pollutants, such as bacteria and fungi. These can grow in humidifiers and get into the air by way of the vapor where it can be breathed in. Some of the more common diseases and pathogens transmitted by humidifiers are:

  • Legionnaires’ Disease. Health problems caused by this disease range from flu-like symptoms to serious infections. This problem is generally more prevalent with portable humidifiers because they draw standing water from a tank in which bacteria and fungi can grow;
  • thermophilic actinomycetes. These bacteria thrive at temperatures of 113° to 140° F and can cause hypersensitivity pneumonitis, which is an inflammation of the lungs; and
  • “humidifier fever,” which is a mysterious and short-lived, flu-like illness marked by fever, headache, chills and malaise, but without prominent pulmonary symptoms. It normally subsides within 24 hours without residual effects.

Other problems associated with humidifiers include:

  • accumulation of white dust from minerals in the water. These minerals may be released in the mist from the humidifier and settle as fine white dust that may be small enough to enter the lungs. The health effects of this dust depend on the types and amounts of dissolved minerals. It is unclear whether these minerals cause any serious health problems;
  • moisture damage due to condensation. Condensed water from over-humidified air will appear on the interior surfaces of windows and other relatively cool surfaces. Excessive moisture on windows can damage windowpanes and walls, but a more serious issue is caused when moisture collects on the inner surfaces of exterior walls. Moisture there can ruin insulation and rot the wall, and cause peeling, cracking or blistering of the paint; and
  • accumulation of mold. This organic substance grows readily in moist environments, such as a home moistened by an over-worked humidifier. Mold can be hazardous to people with compromised immune systems.

Designs and MaintenanceHumidistat

  • drum-type humidifier:  has a rotating spongy surface that absorbs water from a tray. Air from the central heating system blows through the sponge, vaporizing the absorbed water. The drum type requires care and maintenance because mold and impurities can collect in the water tray. According to some manufacturers’ instructions, this tray should be rinsed annually, although it usually helps to clean it several times per heating season.
  • flow-through or “trickle” humidifier:  a higher quality though more expensive unit than the drum-type, which allows fresh water to trickle into an aluminum panel. Air blows through the panel and forces the water to evaporate into the air stream. Excess water exits the panel into a drain tube. This design requires little maintenance because the draining water has a “self-cleaning” effect and, unlike the drum-type humidifier, there is no stagnant water.

Other tips that InterNACHI inspectors can pass on to their clients:

  • If equipped with a damper, it should be closed in the summer and opened in the winter. The damper may appear as a knob that can be set to “summer” or “winter” setting, or it may be a piece of metal that can be inserted to cover the duct opening.
  • The humidifier is controlled by a humidistat, which must be adjusted daily. Some new models do this automatically, although most require daily attention from building occupants. The humidistat should contain a chart that can be used to identify the proper setting based on the outdoor temperature. If this adjustment is not performed, condensation will likely collect on cool surfaces and potentially lead to mold or wood rot. Many homeowners do not know that this calibration is necessary.
  • The furnace might need to be checked for rust. Some humidifiers are installed inside the plenum of the furnace, which can be damaged by rust if the humidifier leaks.
  • Central humidifiers may have a solid core that should be replaced each year. The manufacturer’s instructions should be consulted regarding this replacement.
In summary, central humidifiers are used to humidify air to make it more comfortable, but they can cause health problems and building damage if they are not properly maintained.
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Cement Substitutes

Cement Substitutes

by Nick Gromicko
Cement substitutes are materials that may be substituted, to some degree, for cement in order to improve different properties, such as strength and longevity. The use of cement substitutes is generally encouraged because of the environmental advantages gained from their diversion from the waste stream, the reduction of the energy required in their re-purposing (as compared to the manufacture of cement), and the conservation of raw materials, such as silica, alumina and iron oxide. In fact, as much greenhouse gas is created during the production of cement used in the U.S. as the operation of 22 million cars. In addition, the U.S. imports about 20% of its cement, which adds to its cost and wastes a great deal of energy, according to Environmental Building News.
Inspectors are more likely to encounter cement substitutes in heavy construction as opposed to residential construction, where contractors are less familiar with their use. Cement substitutes are distinguished from aggregate substitutes, such as ground scrap rubber and ground glass, and concrete additives, such as air-entrapment agents and plasticizers.  Inspectors will not be able to visually identify concrete that has had substitutes for concrete incorporated into the mix.
The most common cement substitutes include the following:
  • Silica fume, also known as microsilica, is a byproduct of the combustion of quartz, coal and wood chips during the production of silicon metals. silica improves compressive strength, bond strength, and the abrasion resistance of concrete.  Prior to the 1970s, its release into the atmosphere was permitted, but environmental concerns eventually forced its collection and deposition into landfills. It then became economical for silica fume to be used in various applications, chiefly in high-performance concrete. Consisting of fine silicon dioxide particles that are approximately one-hundredth the size of the average cement particle, silica fume is the cement substitute of choice where high strength is critical, such as in high-rise buildings. Cement that contains silica fume looks darker than ordinary cement. Although a respirator should be worn while handling pure silica fume, a cement-silica fume mix is not considered dangerous to humans.
  • Fly ash is a fine, light, glassy residue generated during ground- or powdered-coal combustion. Contractors find that fly ash enables cement to flow better in pump hoses and makes it more workable under hand-finishing. It includes substantial amounts of silicon dioxide and calcium oxide, both of which are natural ingredients in coal-bearing rock. Mixed with cement during the construction of the Hoover Dam during the 1930s, it wasn’t until the 1980s when its use in construction became commonplace. There are two types of fly ash:
    • Class C fly ash is produced from the burning of younger lignite or sub-bituminous coal, and it contains considerably more lime and is stronger than its alternative, Class C fly ashClass F fly ash. It is preferable for green building projects and is the standard type of fly ash found in residential applications. Inspectors can identify this type of cement substitute by its buff, tan, or occasionally orange coloring.
    • Class F fly ash results from the burning of harder, older anthracite and bituminous coal. Excessive carbon, which may be indicated by a dark colored cement mix, means that the coal was not burned thoroughly, which may reduce the concrete’s freeze-thaw resistance.
Fly ash contains a number of hazardous minerals, such as mercury, cadmium, arsenic, lead and selenium. There is little evidence that these substances can leach out of the concrete, although disposal and re-use of cement containing fly ash has raised health concerns.
  • Slag is a byproduct of the production of iron and steel in blast furnaces. The benefits of the partial substitution of slag for cement are improved durability, reduction of life-cycle costs, lower maintenance costs, and greater concrete sustainability.  The molten slag is cooled in water and then ground into a fine powder. Slag is used in very high concentrations, often occupying more than half of the total composition of cement. The energy required to grind and ship slag makes it less energy-efficient than fly ash but better than Portland cement. Slag concrete is reflective and lighter in color than fly ash and silica fume, and it may initially have a blue-green coloring that typically disappears within a week. Known as “greening,” this discoloration will not disappear if the slag is used in swimming pools or other wet locations.
Cement substitutes can alleviate the following types of concrete weathering:
  • alkali-silica reaction, in which crazing and the expansion of concrete results from the interaction between high-alkali cement and high-silica aggregates. Much of the alkalinity can be removed through the action of slag, while Class F fly ash is also effective;
  • corrosion, in which de-icing salts migrate through pores in the concrete to corrode the reinforcement steel and rebar. Cement substitutes mitigate this corrosion by removing the calcium hydroxide that makes the concrete permeable; and
  • sulfate attack, in which concrete is attacked by sulfates that are found in some arid soils, seawater and wastewater. Concrete that incorporates fly ash or are composed of more than 60% slag are effective in limiting attack by sulfates.
In summary, cement substitutes are used to enhance certain qualities of cement and reduce the environmental and financial costs of cement creation.
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Carpet Beetles

Carpet Beetles

by Nick Gromicko

Carpet beetles are household pests capable of destroying various household items. Inspection and knowledge of their habits can prevent costly destruction.

Life Cycle and HabitsFurniture carpet beetle, adult and larvae

Female carpet beetles will lay 50 to 100 small, pearly-white eggs on protected surfaces near a food source, such as the lint around baseboards, in the ductwork of hot-air furnace systems, and on wool clothing in storage. Larvae emerge once the eggs hatch after six to 11 days in warm weather, although they may require more time in cool weather. The larval life spans between 250 to 650 days, most of it spent scavenging for protein-rich food in dimly lit areas. By the time they reach adulthood, carpet beetles will live for only another few weeks or months, and they will no longer damage household goods. Unlike larvae, adults are attracted to light and can be found busily flying around windows or feeding on pollen outdoors.

Types of Carpet Beetles
 
Carpet beetles come in several types of subspecies, including the following:
  • black carpet beetle:  Adults are oval and shiny black, with brownish legs. They vary in length from 1/8-inch to 3/16-inch. Larvae are golden to dark brown, and about 1/2-inch long. The body is narrow and elongated, and narrows toward the rear.
  • varied carpet beetle:  Adults are 1/10-inch to 1/8-inch long and nearly round. The top surface is usually gray, with a mixture of white, brown and yellow scales, and irregular black crossbands. The bottom surface has long, gray-yellow scales. Larvae are about 1/4-inch long, and light to dark brown in color. The body is wide and broader at the rear than the front.
  • furniture carpet beetle:  Adults are 1/16-inch to 1/8-inch long, nearly round and whitish, checkered with black spots, each outlined with yellowish-orange scales. The bottom surface is white and the legs have yellow scales. Larvae are about 1/4-inch long, elongated and oval, and thickly covered with brownish hair.
  • common carpet beetle:  Adults are 1/10-inch to 1/8-inch long, nearly round, and gray to black. They have minute, whitish scales and a band of orange-red scales down the middle of the back and around the eyes. Larvae are similar to those of the varied and furniture carpet beetles.

Damage and Inspection

Carpet beetle larvae prefer to feed in dark, protected places, consuming and damaging wool, fur, silk, cashmere, feathers, bone, and synthetic and cellulose-based fibers that contain some amount of animal fibers. Check for larvae and their cast skins under baseboards, and in and under upholstered furniture, air ducts, stuffed animals, stored cereals and grain, abandoned bird and wasp nests under eaves, and in attics, and clothes closets. Stored items are vulnerable to severe damage, so Fabric holes typical of carpet beetle infestationperiodically inspect woolens and other susceptible items. Also, inspect for improperly sealed windows, as these are a likely entry point for carpet beetles, although the insects are small enough that it may be impossible to completely prevent their entry.

It is important for the homeowner to know the difference between carpet beetle damage and damage caused by other pests, such as clothes moths. Fortunately, the distinction is simple; moth infestations are often accompanied by adult moths flying nearby, and you will likely find adult moths, pupae casings or cocoons and larvae in your clothes. Carpet beetles are less conspicuous, as they typically move elsewhere after feeding, and the adults spend much of their time outdoors.  Telltale signs of beetle-damaged clothing include small, irregular holes, especially around the collar.

Chemical Treatments
 
Homeowners interested in pest control measures for eliminating carpet beetles indoors have the following options:
  • permethrin:  This product is relatively safe and is recommended for mild infestations.
  • cyfluthrin:  This poison is longer-lasting than permethrin.
  • pheromone traps:  These baits attract adults using special scents, which lures them into glue from which they cannot escape. This measure will diminish the number of active adults, which, in turn, will reduce the risk of future infestations elsewhere in the building.
  • diatomaceous earth and silica aerogel:  These substances, known as desiccants, cause insects to lose moisture and, in small quantities, they are relatively harmless to humans.

Non-Chemical Treatment

  • Sanitation is the best way to avoid carpet beetle infestations. Practice thorough and frequent vacuuming and sweeping of carpets, rugs, draperies, closets, drawers, upholstery, air ducts, corners, baseboards, and other places where lint and hair accumulate.
  • Wash your clothes to remove adults, larvae, eggs or pupae. Be sure to throw away badly infested pieces.
  • Remove dead insects and rodents. Carpet beetles feed on animal waste, including their excreta and carcasses, so be sure to inspect for dead insects, especially around windowsills, and control any rodent population in your home. Avoid poison baits, as dying mice may be found more quickly by the beetles than by you.
  • Thoroughly inspect second-hand items before bringing them into your house and immediately launder them, as carpet beetles often hitchhike into homes on clothing, rugs, quilts, and other items of animal origin.
  • Tightly seal windows and other openings, especially near flowers and shrubbery, where adults are likely to be found.
In summary, carpet beetles are a common source of damaged household items, and measures should be taken to prevent infestation.
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