GARAGE DOOR OPENERS


 As of July 1, 2019, All Automatic Garage Door Openers Must Have a Battery Back Up (CA)SB 969, Dodd. Automatic garage door openers: backup batteries.
Existing law requires an automatic garage door opener that is manufactured for sale, purchased, sold, offered for sale, or installed in a residence to comply with specified safety requirements, including that the automatic garage door opener have an automatic reverse safety device.
This bill, beginning July 1, 2019, would also require an automatic garage door opener that is manufactured for sale, sold, offered for sale, or installed in a residence to have a battery backup function that is designed to operate when activated because of an electrical outage. The bill would make a violation of those provisions subject to a civil penalty of $1,000. The bill would, on and after July 1, 2019, prohibit a replacement residential garage door from being installed in a manner that connects the door to an existing garage door opener that does not meet the requirements of these provisions.
 

Ceramic Tile and Stone Inspection

Ceramic Tile and Stone Inspection

by Nick Gromicko
Ceramic tile and stone are popular flooring materials, but each is subject to damage if not properly maintained.Natural stone floors are durable, but vulnerable to common acids and dirt
Ceramic tile, due to its low required maintenance, ease of cleaning, and resistance to physical damage, is one of the most popular flooring materials available today. Made primarily from clay and other organic, as well as inorganic, materials, the tile is available in both glazed and unglazed finishes. Ceramic tiles are vulnerable to a number of defects, however, that can be inspected for the following issues:
  • uneven tiles. Examine the tiles to see how level they are in relation to each other. Uneven tiles probably weren’t set correctly in the mortar, and reinstallation may be necessary;
  • cracks, loose tiles and splitting. Cracks in ceramic tile are the result of movement in the tile underlayment, excessive expansion or contraction of the building during freeze-thaw cycles, abuse, or improper installation. Minor cracks can be repaired with grout that matches the color of the tile, but larger cracks may require replacement of the tile;
  • crazing. If tiles were cooled too quickly after kiln-firing, they can develop fine surface cracks, most often appearing as a fine, web-like network akin to cracked ice. Crazing is much more common in older, historic tiles than in modern tiles, but it still happens today. Crazing increases the rate at which tiles hold dirt, leading to discoloration; and
  • cracked or discolored grout lines. Unsealed or improperly sealed grout will readily absorb moisture from the air or standing water, especially around showers and sinks. Some types of porous tiles may actually powder or spall if subjected to constant moisture. Damaged or discolored grout can be removed This historic tile is thoroughly crazed and replaced.

Natural stone tiles have a beauty that is difficult to recreate. They add an air of elegance and character to any home. Stone is more durable than ceramic tile, too, as it’s less likely to scratch, and holds up well under foot traffic. The unique and complex patterns can appear busy and overwhelming in large, empty rooms, however.  Stone is also more difficult to maintain than ceramic tile. The following maintenance and repair tips are recommended:

  • Apply an impregnating sealant. An oliophobic sealant will repel both oil and water, and it’s especially helpful in the kitchen. Try to use a solvent-based sealant, as they’re generally better than water-based varieties.
  • Quickly clean up any acids. Some of the more common stone tiles are marble and limestone, which are calcite-based, meaning that they will corrode when exposed to acids, such as vinegar or lemon juice. Unfortunately, sealants cannot protect stone against these substances, which will etch into the stone if left standing. Igneous stones, such as basalt and granite, as well as ceramic tile, are less vulnerable to acid damage.
  • Lay walk-off mats or area rugs on either side of exterior entrances and instruct people to wipe their feet before they enter the home. The main cause of surface scratching on stone floors is dirt from outside that becomes caught under shoes and scraped across the floor. Scratching can dull the stone’s natural polish and damage its natural crystals, causing it to lose its shine and reflection.
  • Use a good-quality stone soap, preferably one containing linseed oil, for regular maintenance and cleaning. In most cases, you can simply mop the soap and leave it to dry.
In summary, ceramic and stone can be superb flooring materials, but water, acid, improper installation, and other adverse conditions may create defects.
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Cement Substitutes

Cement Substitutes

by Nick Gromicko
Cement substitutes are materials that may be substituted, to some degree, for cement in order to improve different properties, such as strength and longevity. The use of cement substitutes is generally encouraged because of the environmental advantages gained from their diversion from the waste stream, the reduction of the energy required in their re-purposing (as compared to the manufacture of cement), and the conservation of raw materials, such as silica, alumina and iron oxide. In fact, as much greenhouse gas is created during the production of cement used in the U.S. as the operation of 22 million cars. In addition, the U.S. imports about 20% of its cement, which adds to its cost and wastes a great deal of energy, according to Environmental Building News.
Inspectors are more likely to encounter cement substitutes in heavy construction as opposed to residential construction, where contractors are less familiar with their use. Cement substitutes are distinguished from aggregate substitutes, such as ground scrap rubber and ground glass, and concrete additives, such as air-entrapment agents and plasticizers.  Inspectors will not be able to visually identify concrete that has had substitutes for concrete incorporated into the mix.
The most common cement substitutes include the following:
  • Silica fume, also known as microsilica, is a byproduct of the combustion of quartz, coal and wood chips during the production of silicon metals. silica improves compressive strength, bond strength, and the abrasion resistance of concrete.  Prior to the 1970s, its release into the atmosphere was permitted, but environmental concerns eventually forced its collection and deposition into landfills. It then became economical for silica fume to be used in various applications, chiefly in high-performance concrete. Consisting of fine silicon dioxide particles that are approximately one-hundredth the size of the average cement particle, silica fume is the cement substitute of choice where high strength is critical, such as in high-rise buildings. Cement that contains silica fume looks darker than ordinary cement. Although a respirator should be worn while handling pure silica fume, a cement-silica fume mix is not considered dangerous to humans.
  • Fly ash is a fine, light, glassy residue generated during ground- or powdered-coal combustion. Contractors find that fly ash enables cement to flow better in pump hoses and makes it more workable under hand-finishing. It includes substantial amounts of silicon dioxide and calcium oxide, both of which are natural ingredients in coal-bearing rock. Mixed with cement during the construction of the Hoover Dam during the 1930s, it wasn’t until the 1980s when its use in construction became commonplace. There are two types of fly ash:
    • Class C fly ash is produced from the burning of younger lignite or sub-bituminous coal, and it contains considerably more lime and is stronger than its alternative, Class C fly ashClass F fly ash. It is preferable for green building projects and is the standard type of fly ash found in residential applications. Inspectors can identify this type of cement substitute by its buff, tan, or occasionally orange coloring.
    • Class F fly ash results from the burning of harder, older anthracite and bituminous coal. Excessive carbon, which may be indicated by a dark colored cement mix, means that the coal was not burned thoroughly, which may reduce the concrete’s freeze-thaw resistance.
Fly ash contains a number of hazardous minerals, such as mercury, cadmium, arsenic, lead and selenium. There is little evidence that these substances can leach out of the concrete, although disposal and re-use of cement containing fly ash has raised health concerns.
  • Slag is a byproduct of the production of iron and steel in blast furnaces. The benefits of the partial substitution of slag for cement are improved durability, reduction of life-cycle costs, lower maintenance costs, and greater concrete sustainability.  The molten slag is cooled in water and then ground into a fine powder. Slag is used in very high concentrations, often occupying more than half of the total composition of cement. The energy required to grind and ship slag makes it less energy-efficient than fly ash but better than Portland cement. Slag concrete is reflective and lighter in color than fly ash and silica fume, and it may initially have a blue-green coloring that typically disappears within a week. Known as “greening,” this discoloration will not disappear if the slag is used in swimming pools or other wet locations.
Cement substitutes can alleviate the following types of concrete weathering:
  • alkali-silica reaction, in which crazing and the expansion of concrete results from the interaction between high-alkali cement and high-silica aggregates. Much of the alkalinity can be removed through the action of slag, while Class F fly ash is also effective;
  • corrosion, in which de-icing salts migrate through pores in the concrete to corrode the reinforcement steel and rebar. Cement substitutes mitigate this corrosion by removing the calcium hydroxide that makes the concrete permeable; and
  • sulfate attack, in which concrete is attacked by sulfates that are found in some arid soils, seawater and wastewater. Concrete that incorporates fly ash or are composed of more than 60% slag are effective in limiting attack by sulfates.
In summary, cement substitutes are used to enhance certain qualities of cement and reduce the environmental and financial costs of cement creation.
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Carpet Beetles

Carpet Beetles

by Nick Gromicko

Carpet beetles are household pests capable of destroying various household items. Inspection and knowledge of their habits can prevent costly destruction.

Life Cycle and HabitsFurniture carpet beetle, adult and larvae

Female carpet beetles will lay 50 to 100 small, pearly-white eggs on protected surfaces near a food source, such as the lint around baseboards, in the ductwork of hot-air furnace systems, and on wool clothing in storage. Larvae emerge once the eggs hatch after six to 11 days in warm weather, although they may require more time in cool weather. The larval life spans between 250 to 650 days, most of it spent scavenging for protein-rich food in dimly lit areas. By the time they reach adulthood, carpet beetles will live for only another few weeks or months, and they will no longer damage household goods. Unlike larvae, adults are attracted to light and can be found busily flying around windows or feeding on pollen outdoors.

Types of Carpet Beetles
 
Carpet beetles come in several types of subspecies, including the following:
  • black carpet beetle:  Adults are oval and shiny black, with brownish legs. They vary in length from 1/8-inch to 3/16-inch. Larvae are golden to dark brown, and about 1/2-inch long. The body is narrow and elongated, and narrows toward the rear.
  • varied carpet beetle:  Adults are 1/10-inch to 1/8-inch long and nearly round. The top surface is usually gray, with a mixture of white, brown and yellow scales, and irregular black crossbands. The bottom surface has long, gray-yellow scales. Larvae are about 1/4-inch long, and light to dark brown in color. The body is wide and broader at the rear than the front.
  • furniture carpet beetle:  Adults are 1/16-inch to 1/8-inch long, nearly round and whitish, checkered with black spots, each outlined with yellowish-orange scales. The bottom surface is white and the legs have yellow scales. Larvae are about 1/4-inch long, elongated and oval, and thickly covered with brownish hair.
  • common carpet beetle:  Adults are 1/10-inch to 1/8-inch long, nearly round, and gray to black. They have minute, whitish scales and a band of orange-red scales down the middle of the back and around the eyes. Larvae are similar to those of the varied and furniture carpet beetles.

Damage and Inspection

Carpet beetle larvae prefer to feed in dark, protected places, consuming and damaging wool, fur, silk, cashmere, feathers, bone, and synthetic and cellulose-based fibers that contain some amount of animal fibers. Check for larvae and their cast skins under baseboards, and in and under upholstered furniture, air ducts, stuffed animals, stored cereals and grain, abandoned bird and wasp nests under eaves, and in attics, and clothes closets. Stored items are vulnerable to severe damage, so Fabric holes typical of carpet beetle infestationperiodically inspect woolens and other susceptible items. Also, inspect for improperly sealed windows, as these are a likely entry point for carpet beetles, although the insects are small enough that it may be impossible to completely prevent their entry.

It is important for the homeowner to know the difference between carpet beetle damage and damage caused by other pests, such as clothes moths. Fortunately, the distinction is simple; moth infestations are often accompanied by adult moths flying nearby, and you will likely find adult moths, pupae casings or cocoons and larvae in your clothes. Carpet beetles are less conspicuous, as they typically move elsewhere after feeding, and the adults spend much of their time outdoors.  Telltale signs of beetle-damaged clothing include small, irregular holes, especially around the collar.

Chemical Treatments
 
Homeowners interested in pest control measures for eliminating carpet beetles indoors have the following options:
  • permethrin:  This product is relatively safe and is recommended for mild infestations.
  • cyfluthrin:  This poison is longer-lasting than permethrin.
  • pheromone traps:  These baits attract adults using special scents, which lures them into glue from which they cannot escape. This measure will diminish the number of active adults, which, in turn, will reduce the risk of future infestations elsewhere in the building.
  • diatomaceous earth and silica aerogel:  These substances, known as desiccants, cause insects to lose moisture and, in small quantities, they are relatively harmless to humans.

Non-Chemical Treatment

  • Sanitation is the best way to avoid carpet beetle infestations. Practice thorough and frequent vacuuming and sweeping of carpets, rugs, draperies, closets, drawers, upholstery, air ducts, corners, baseboards, and other places where lint and hair accumulate.
  • Wash your clothes to remove adults, larvae, eggs or pupae. Be sure to throw away badly infested pieces.
  • Remove dead insects and rodents. Carpet beetles feed on animal waste, including their excreta and carcasses, so be sure to inspect for dead insects, especially around windowsills, and control any rodent population in your home. Avoid poison baits, as dying mice may be found more quickly by the beetles than by you.
  • Thoroughly inspect second-hand items before bringing them into your house and immediately launder them, as carpet beetles often hitchhike into homes on clothing, rugs, quilts, and other items of animal origin.
  • Tightly seal windows and other openings, especially near flowers and shrubbery, where adults are likely to be found.
In summary, carpet beetles are a common source of damaged household items, and measures should be taken to prevent infestation.
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Bug Zappers

Bug Zappers

by Nick Gromicko

A bug zapper is a popular exterior appliance installed by a homeowner or food handler to attempt localized control of flying insect populations. Its name comes from the characteristic “zap” sound produced when an insect is electrocuted. Around homes, they are primarily used to kill biting (female) mosquitoes, which create itchy bumps and can transmit the West Nile Virus or encephalitis, malaria and yellow fever. While Popular Mechanicsproduced a sketch of a bug zapper as early as 1911, it wasn’t until 1934 that parasitology professor Dr. W.B. Herms introduced the electronic insect killer that became the model for all future bug zappers.
How They Work

Bug zappers typically consist of the following components:

  • the housing, which is a plastic or grounded metal exterior casing that contains the zapper’s parts. It may be shaped liked a lantern, a cylinder or a rectangular cube. A grid design may be incorporated to prevent children and animals from touching the electrified grids inside the device;
  • a light source, which is usually fluorescent-type, such as mercury, neon or ultraviolet light;
  • wire grids or screens, which are electrified layers of wire mesh that surround the light source. These grids are separated by a tiny gap roughly the size of a typical insect (several millimeters); and
  • the transformer, which is the device that electrifies the wire mesh, changing the 120-volt, electrical-line voltage to 2,000 volts or more.
Bug zappers work by luring flying insects with fluorescent (typically ultraviolet) light into a deadly electrical current. Because the flower patterns that attract insects are better revealed in ultraviolet light, many flying insects that feed on flowers will be drawn to the bug zapper. Before they reach the light, however, they will come into contact with the wire mesh, completing the electrical circuit and disintegrating.
Bug zappers can kill many thousands of flying insects nightly. Some models incorporate a tray designed to collect scattered insect parts, although many models allow the debris to fall to the ground below.
Effective or Not? 
Despite their widespread use, numerous studies have called into question the effectiveness and safety of bug zappers. Two of the more pressing issues are the following:
  • Female (biting) mosquitoes and other biting insects are more attracted to the carbon dioxide (CO2) and water vapor in the breath of animals than to ultraviolet light. As a consequence, standard bug zappers typically kill large numbers of harmless and beneficial insects, such as beetles and fireflies, and ultimately fail to reduce the number of the types of insects that prompt the purchase of a bug zapper in the first place. In fact, one study found that just 0.22% of the insects killed by bug zappers were biting insects, while nearly half of those killed were harmless, non-biting aquatic insects from nearby rivers and streams. The study even found “the probability of being bitten by mosquitoes increases in the vicinity of these traps,” perhaps because the biting insects are actually lured by the ultraviolet light but become distracted by the far more attractive human prey nearby. Some newer bug zappers address this issue by incorporating a CO2 container at the bottom of the lamp. Other designs attract mosquitoes into a netting device on the outside of the bug zapper that traps the mosquito, and eventually the insect dies of dehydration.
  • The electrocuted insects are blasted into a fine mist that contains insect parts as well as unkilled bacteria and viruses up to 7 feet (2.1 m) from the device. The air surrounding the zapper may become contaminated with campylobacter jejuni, staphylococciserratia marcescens, enterococci, and other potentially dangerous organisms commonly carried by flies. For this reason, a bug zapper should never be placed over a food preparation area or in a hospital or any other sterile environment to prevent the potential spread of disease. Children should not be allowed to play beneath an operating bug zapper. Models that contain a tray to catch insect debris are less of a health risk.
Tips for Homeowners 
Bug zappers do not present more of a fire hazard than other electrical devices. Most units have been UL-tested, but, as with any outdoor electrical appliance, care must be taken to ensure that electrical cords do not become frayed or wet.  They should also be connected to GFCI-protected receptacles.

Inspectors may pass on the following mosquito-control techniques to concerned homeowners:

  • Do not allow water to accumulate anywhere in your yard for more than a few days. Eliminate sources of standing water, especially old tires, flower pots, clogged gutters, tin cans or buckets. Fill in or drain ruts, puddles and other low places in the yard. Even holes in trees from rot and hollow stumps can collect water that can harbor mosquitoes. Cover trash containers to keep rainwater out, and drill holes in the bottom of trash containers to allow any water to drain. Repair leaky pipes and outdoor faucets.
  • Bug zappers should be cleaned out at least annually to prevent the accumulation of bug parts on the wire mesh, which will decrease the effectiveness of the unit, and may lead to illness if the bug parts contaminate foods, drink or items used by people or pets.
  • Keep grass cut short and any shrubbery well-trimmed, as adult mosquitoes use these places to rest and hide.
  • Encourage the presence of bats by installing a bat house. These winged mammals pose little danger to humans, and a single brown bat can consume up to 600 mosquitoes per hour.
  • Install a fan. Mosquitoes and other flying insects will avoid moving air.
  • Wear long-sleeve shirts and pants. The pesticide permethrin may be applied to clothing to protect against mosquitoes and ticks. Beware that while permethrin is relatively safe for people and dogs, it is toxic to cats.
In summary, bug zappers are a common yet controversial means of controlling biting insect populations around the home, and caution should be taken in their selection and use.
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